David on Formosa

Keeping up with the War God
by Steven Crook
Yushan Publications, 2001
ISBN: 0954087305

Keeping up with the War God does not follow the chronological narrative structure of the typical travel book. Instead it is a series of random observations and jottings from travels around Taiwan. I never felt the book was disjointed though. Steven Crook writes in a wonderful crisp prose, and perhaps that is what holds the book together. 

Also it would be rare for anyone in Taiwan to take a month-long vacation and embark on a grand tour of the island. Travels tend to be of a few days taken when the opportunity arises. So the book follows a winding path around the island.

On a trek to Jade Mountain (玉山) one of Crook's travelling companions says, "What I like about Taiwan is that it is finite."The author follows this quote by writing: "But Taiwan's modest dimensions are deceptive: The island has no deserts or howling wastes, but there are mountains and valleys so inaccessible and so seldom visited that they might just as well be a thousand kilometres from the nearest city."  

This is one of the things I love about Taiwan. It is possible to find places that seem remote or forgotten even though you may only be a few kilometres from the nearest 7-Eleven. It is not even necessary to travel far from the big cities to find these places. They are often just a stone's throw from the crowded urban areas. 

The book details a number of temples and rituals associated with them. The War God referred to in the title is in the small town of Yenshui, notable only for its annual rocket festival. On this occassion huge crowds gather wearing protective gear such as motorcycle helmets and fireworks are fired directly into the crowd. 

It also discusses some of the religious rituals which are a part of every day life in Taiwan such as the burning of ghost money. Crook asks his wife why they don't just burn a spirit credit card instead of huge piles of ghost money. He notes, 'The logic of my wife's reply was unassailable: My grandmother couldn't read or write. She wouldn't know how to sign her name."'

Religion is probably the most consistent theme of the book. Although there are many other observations about Taiwanese life: the crazy traffic, the seemingly endless proliferation of small businesses and crime.   

While Crook is not always complimentary about Taiwanese culture, his passion and love for Taiwan always shines through. My only complaint about this book is that it is too short.